Fig-forward fragrances are the big trend this fall, with new launches from Malin+Goetz, Tom Ford, Chloé and Régime des Fleurs crowding counters — and perfumers say the note's versatility explains why it works on nearly everyone.

D.S. & Durga cofounder and perfumer David Seth Moltz calls fig "the great median accord. It might be the rose of our era, a must-have in a perfume collection that works on everybody."

Why can perfumers interpret fig so freely?

The fig plant itself yields no essential oil. Perfumers reconstruct the scent with synthetic molecules, which Régime des Fleurs founder and perfumer Alia Raza says "leaves a lot of room for interpretation." An accord can capture:

• the milkiness of the plant's sap
• the woodiness of the branches
• the sharp green notes of a crushed fig leaf
• the succulence of the ripe fruit's flesh

"The fig tree is a fascinating species from a perfumer's perspective because each part of the tree has its own olfactive identity," says Olivia Jan, a senior perfumer at Givaudan. Even the fruit itself shifts character, she notes — "delicate, and slightly floral" when just picked, "dark, jammy, and resinous" when dried.

What's launching this season?

The new wave spans styles. Malin+Goetz is bringing back its hyper-realistic Moroccan Fig. Tom Ford's Figue Érotique takes a woody, ambery angle. Born to StandOut's Fig Porn targets fans of decadently sweet fragrances. Granado's new Figo Confit, by perfumer Nathalie Benareau, layers a candied fig note with davana, date and plum to amplify "richness, texture, and enveloping depth," she says.

Two launches stand out. Chloé's Atelier des Fleurs Plage du Figuier smells like a Mediterranean vacation, and Régime des Fleurs' Wildly Fig delivers an airy, lemony fig with a dash of pistachio — Raza describes it as "neon green, tart, and alive."

Where did the fig fragrance come from?

L'Artisan Parfumeur's Premier Figuier, launched in 1994, is widely considered the first fig fragrance. Its creator, Olivia Giacobetti, also made Diptyque's Philosykos, the scent most often named as the quintessential fig perfume.

The note's appeal is also evolving. Chloé's Plage du Figuier came from perfumer Ane Ayo's idea to evoke the flower hidden inside the fruit. "Many people don't realize that the fig flower is concealed inside the fruit itself, which makes it both mysterious and captivating," she says. "I wanted to capture a fig that felt luminous and solar, rather than overly sweet, expressing its floral, pulpy facets, as if you were holding a ripe black fig on a warm Mediterranean beach."

Notably, fig appears to be a note female perfumers are especially drawn to, though the scent itself is unisex.

Why is fig peaking right now?

Fig sits at the crossroads of several olfactive families — green, fruity, creamy, woody and floral — which makes it unusually flexible on the wearer. It also bridges seasons: coconut-like undertones carry a memory of summer warmth, while honeyed ripeness matches the damp-bark scent of fallen leaves.

Moltz sees a market shift behind the trend: "It's more exotic than other fruits, yet familiar enough to our noses." The note may signal consumers moving away from sweet gourmands while still wanting to smell slightly edible.

"I think people are drawn to fig because it feels both comforting and sophisticated," says Ayo. "It has a natural warmth and sensuality, but also a freshness that keeps it modern. There is something very evocative about it. Even for people who have never been near fig trees, it conjures images of sunshine, nature, and a slower pace of life."

With established houses reissuing proven fig scents and indie brands pushing the note into sweeter, woodier and greener territory, fig looks positioned to anchor fragrance wardrobes well past this season.