Florence Pugh Wore Three Wigs to Build Cathy Ames in East of Eden

By Amara Osei

Florence Pugh wore three wigs, all built by wigmaker Samuel James, to carry Cathy Ames through 43 years of story in Netflix's East of Eden. The adaptation of John Steinbeck's 1952 novel, created by Zoe Kazan — whose grandfather Elia Kazan directed the 1955 film version — has become one of the year's biggest TV hits, and its hair and makeup function as visible markers of Cathy's shifting identity.

How do you design beauty across four decades?

Co-hair and makeup designers Nancy Hennah and Sarah Rubano anchored every look in the script and in historical research, working with the art and costume departments. "East of Eden is set over 43 years, so our beauty vision changed with the characters and with what was in fashion during each time period," Hennah said. "We focused mainly on the script rather than the book for reference," Rubano added. "And Zoe [Kazan] was very descriptive and had clear ideas for most characters."

The seven-part series opens in New England just after the Civil War and closes in the 1910s as men leave for World War I.

What did the first wig do?

Wig number one covers Cathy in Boston with Mr. Edwards, her arrival bloodied at the Trask farm, and her move to the Salinas Valley ranch with Adam Trask, whom she marries. Hairstylist Jaime Leigh McIntosh wanted a natural progression from Cathy's adolescent blonde. "We wanted the color to be a darker blonde than it was when she was a child, but still look incredibly natural with lighter ends, as if they were sun-kissed," she said.

Hairstylist Jaime Leigh McIntosh avoided hot tools entirely, choosing to "wet set the hair to create texture." Loose hair early on reflected Cathy's healing from her injuries, including a broken wrist. "We figured the most she would be able to physically do herself is brush it, so we left it out and natural," McIntosh explained. Fluff, wisps and flyaways gave Cathy a softness that helped her present herself to Adam as vulnerable.

The accessories carried coded meaning. In Boston, Cathy wears an "Alice in Wonderland-inspired blue ribbon." On the farm, McIntosh tied her hair with fabric ribbons — one cut from the bloodied dress Cathy arrived in. "Just a bit of a secret for Florence and me that no one would notice unless pointed out," she said.

Which products built the look?

Makeup artist Heba Thorisdottir worked with a key constraint: in the late 1800s, cosmetics were not yet widely manufactured. "The cosmetic availability went perfectly with the storyline of Cathy transforming into Kate and wearing makeup," she said.

For young Cathy, she sheered out Westman Atelier stick foundation with Beau Domaine The Cream, then added Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Blush Stick in Petal and HydroBalm Tinted Lipstick in English Rose — a shade she has since used on at least one actor on every job. "It is the perfect nude [for this skin tone]," Thorisdottir said. Gucci Westman's foundations "were the perfect fit for almost all the looks for Cathy from young to old."

How did Cathy become Kate?

After Cathy shoots Adam, abandons her sons and flees to Faye's (Martha Plimpton) brothel, the sheriff forces a deal: a new identity in exchange for silence. "Once the sheriff tells her to color her hair darker, she is presenting to the world as Kate and not Cathy anymore," McIntosh said. She dyed the identical second wig herself rather than ordering a naturally brown one, to control the result.

A morning style with two peaks at the crown became "kitten ears," a motif that grew through the series. The final wig, worn when Kate runs the brothel, is darker with visible grays — she spends less time in daylight. McIntosh sourced tiara-type accessories, including pieces handmade by New Zealand artist Daughters of July, with costume designer Kirsty Cameron. "Florence beamed with delight at the idea of Kate wearing tiara-type hair accessories — for Kate to be queen of her arena," McIntosh said.

In episode six, "The Great Try," Thorisdottir created Kate's boldest red lip by mixing Le Rouge Français 010 and MAC Russian Red, "a shade that's been in my kit since I did Inglourious Basterds."

What happens in the finale?

In "Tinshel," Kate's empire collapses and her hair follows. "In her final hours, we wanted Kate [to look] a little unraveled," McIntosh said. The half-up style mirrors the young Cathy Kate confronts at the end. Thorisdottir let the makeup degrade on purpose: "the makeup to break down and move with her." The final scene — jewelry, broken-down makeup, messy kitten ears — left the makeup artist in awe: "That scene is so epic."

The methodology signals where prestige TV beauty departments are heading: historically accurate techniques and character-driven product arcs, not just durability on set.