Fragrance

Planets Perfumery Turns Astrology Into Fragrance — Literally

San Francisco's Planets Perfumery builds fragrance as ritual: Mars, Venus and Mercury, formulated by an occult practitioner who calls his scents spells — and refuses mass scale.

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Every Witch I Know Is Obsessed With This Perfume
Every Witch I Know Is Obsessed With This PerfumeAI-generated

The takeaway

  • Planets Perfumery is a three-person house founded by Jenna Scott, Socorro "Coco" Carrillo-Lopez and perfumer Mauricio Garcia, rooted in San Francisco.
  • The debut trio — Mars (blood orange, ginger), Venus (champagne foam, bergamot, Anatolian Rose, oakmoss) and Mercury (lavender, papyrus, jasmine, moss) — corresponds to the planets ruling the first three zodiac signs.
  • The brand uses no endangered botanical species and bottles everything itself in small batches; Scott says the brand will never scale to corporate production.

A three-person fragrance house rooted in San Francisco is converting astrology into perfume, and its perfumer frames the output in unambiguous terms. "When I create fragrances like this, they are spells," Mauricio Garcia, perfumer, certified aromatherapist and occult practitioner, tells us. "They are meant to serve people. They are meant to be familiars."

The brand is Planets Perfumery. Jenna Scott, an archetypal astrologer, had the founding idea. Socorro "Coco" Carrillo-Lopez co-founded the project and runs its operations. Garcia develops and formulates every fragrance. All three spoke over Zoom earlier this month about the brand's origins and methods.

The debut line is a trio: Mars, Venus and Mercury. Scott explains the selection — those planets rule the first three zodiac signs and together describe a sequence of creation. "We thought Mars was going to be number one — it's the ruler of Aries, it's the initiation, the spark of creation. It felt like the perfect one to start off this big project," she says. "And three is a really sacred number to me; releasing three felt really powerful."

The scents map onto their planetary archetypes. Mars is a bold blood orange and ginger composition, with an accord the brand describes as molten sparks. Venus opens with sparkling champagne foam and bergamot, then moves into Anatolian Rose and oakmoss. Mercury is an androgynous wild fougère built on lavender and papyrus, with jasmine and moss.

The astrology behind the bottles

Scott and Carrillo-Lopez met in grad school at CIIS in San Francisco, in the Philosophy, Cosmology, and Consciousness program. Both practice archetypal astrology — a school largely coined by Richard Tarnas's work in Cosmos and Psyche, rooted in traditional Hellenistic systems, and combined with Jungian psychology and James Hillman's archetypal psychology.

Carrillo-Lopez brings a decolonial feminist lens. "I was drawn to astrology when I realized how much astrology overlaps with feminist theory," she says, citing Gloria Anzaldúa's lesser-known study of Hillman and esoteric thought. "I believe the world has been disenchanted by white supremacy and patriarchal norms, and astrology felt like a gateway, or a map, to the enchanted archetypal world."

Scott says the planets, more than the zodiac signs, carry the archetypal weight the brand wants. "With the planets, more so than the zodiac signs, you get these huge currents that are ancient and collective. When you work with those archetypes, you're able to empower people and liberate people by connecting them to these ancient powers."

For Carrillo-Lopez, the product's function is practical: it restores intentionality to a daily habit. "What do I want to feel today? Do I want to feel energized? Connected?"

Perfumery without the trend reports

Garcia rejects the market-driven development cycle that dominates fragrance. "Oh, we're going to do matcha, we're going to do gourmands, because those are popular" — that logic, he implies, plays no role here. He designs each scent as a "true embodiment" of its archetype, tracing the relationships between people and botanicals, which he considers spirits, back through millennia and into the natural biosphere.

He is also a certified aromatherapist in the French medical style, and the chemistry shows up in the formulas. Venus uses a large dose of Iso E Super Plus — a version of the molecule in Escentric Molecule's Molecule 01 — chosen because tests indicate women find it pleasurable on skin. "We used a big piece of it in Venus, because why not?" he says.

Sustainability shapes material choices. Garcia co-founded the Coalition of Sustainable Perfumery with Heather DeAngelo of Carta Fragrances, Sydney Buffman of Sid Botanica, and Molly Brennan of House of Sacred Scents. The brand uses no species designated as extinct in the wild, threatened, endangered or critically endangered. It may use reconstructions of such species, but not extractions. Production is small-batch; Jenna and Coco bottle everything themselves.

"We understand that if we do not caretake the communities that caretake the botanicals we use, those botanical species will cease to exist," Garcia says. Carrillo-Lopez calls the brand's blend of science and other epistemologies — citing classmate Caroline Dickey — "epistemic pluralism. Two things can be right at the same time."

The business runs on a nonhierarchical structure, by design. "I think that reflects in our work and in every facet of it," Scott says.

No corporate scale

Scott is explicit about the ceiling on growth. "I never want to overconsume or overproduce. I don't want to be mass. My goal is just to make this world a more enchanted place, and I hope I can provide something of worth and of beauty that reconnects people to that on a large scale, but never on a corporate scale."

Garcia is blunter: "As I like to say, mass-trash perfumery."

His ambition for the fragrances themselves is protective and functional. "It is my hope that Mars will still be protective, that Venus will be similarly so, that Mercury will open the path in positive ways — because those plants are still themselves. Those energies are still themselves." For a brand positioned against mass production, the measure of success will be whether wearers — believers or not — keep answering Carrillo-Lopez's question of what they want to feel each day.

Original: planetsperfumery.com

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Daniel Okafor

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News editor covering business strategy at Eurasian Beauty Journal.

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