Bemotrizinol Hits US Shelves: First New Sunscreen Filter in 20 Years
The FDA approved bemotrizinol in June — the first new US sunscreen filter in about 20 years. Dermatologists explain its UVA strength, sensitive-skin profile and label names.
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The takeaway
- The FDA added bemotrizinol to its permitted sunscreen ingredients in June, the first new US filter in about 20 years.
- The FDA allows bemotrizinol at up to 6 percent; Europe permits up to 10 percent.
- Bemotrizinol stabilizes avobenzone, which breaks down in sunlight on its own.
The FDA added bemotrizinol to its list of permitted sunscreen ingredients in June, making it the first new UV filter available in the United States in roughly two decades — and the first formulas are already on shelves.
Bemotrizinol, also called BEMT or Tinosorb S, is a broad-spectrum filter. It protects against both UVA and UVB rays and does not break down in sunlight the way some existing filters do.
"When compared with existing U.S. filters, bemotrizinol really shines in the UVA department," says Omaha, NE dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, MD. "That's important because UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin and are major contributors to premature aging and skin cancer."
That gap matters. SPF measures only protection from UVB, the burning rays. UVA rays do not burn, but they are present year-round, even through clouds and windows. Until now, U.S. sunscreens have relied mostly on two UVA filters: avobenzone, which degrades in sunlight, and zinc oxide.
What it means for sensitive skin
"Bemotrizinol appears to have a low potential for irritation and very little systemic absorption, which may make it an appealing option for sensitive skin, although we do not yet have enough real-world U.S. experience to say it is categorically better for acne-prone skin," says Omaha, NE dermatologist Daniel Schlessinger, MD.
Because bemotrizinol is an organic — chemical — filter that absorbs UV light rather than sitting on top of skin like zinc oxide, "it does not inherently create the white cast associated with some mineral sunscreens," Dr. Daniel Schlessinger adds. "But greasiness, breakouts and cosmetic elegance will still depend on the entire formulation."
How to find it on the label
Check the active ingredients. Look for "bemotrizinol in the active ingredients section of the Drug Facts label, where it may be listed at concentrations up to 6 percent," Dr. Daniel Schlessinger says. Six percent is the FDA maximum; Europe allows up to 10 percent. A lower number is not a red flag. SPF reflects all filters working together, so check for "broad spectrum" and SPF 30 or higher on the front of the bottle.
Know its other names. "Parsol Shield and Tinosorb S are supplier trade names, but 'bemotrizinol' is the name that matters on the label," Dr. Daniel Schlessinger explains. BASF makes Tinosorb S; dsm-firmenich makes Parsol Shield. Both are the same ingredient. On sunscreens made in Europe, Asia or Australia, it may appear as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine. Imported formulas were not reviewed by the FDA, even when they contain the same filter.
Expect it paired with other filters. Bemotrizinol "is not a magic bullet that will replace all of your existing sunscreen ingredients," Dr. Daniel Schlessinger says. "Bemotrizinol generally is not potent enough by itself to create the high-SPF products most consumers want, so you should expect to see it combined with 'old' ingredients such as avobenzone, octocrylene or zinc oxide."
That is standard practice, not a shortcoming. Combining filters is how sunscreens cover the full UVA and UVB range. Bemotrizinol also stabilizes avobenzone, which tends to break down on its own in sunlight.
With the first U.S. bemotrizinol formulas now reaching retail, American shoppers for the first time in 20 years can buy a photostable, high-UVA filter reviewed by the FDA — a shift dermatologists expect to reshape formulation standards across the category.
Source: NewBeauty
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News editor covering business strategy at Eurasian Beauty Journal.
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