Dermatologists: Young Retinol Users Are Overdoing It and Damaging Skin Barriers

Dermatologists say some young retinol users are damaging their skin barriers by stacking the vitamin A derivative with exfoliating toners and acne treatments. "Then they combine retinol, exfoliating toner, and acne treatments and wonder why everything burns," said Dr. Kseniya Kobets, director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care, in an interview with ELLE.

The ingredient itself is not the problem. Retinol smooths wrinkles and texture, and dermatologists routinely recommend it alongside sunscreen, particularly for mature skin. The question raised by its popularity on TikTok is whether younger skin needs such a strong ingredient.

Are young people overusing retinol?

Some are, Kobets said. "Especially when social media makes them feel they should already be preventing wrinkles." But she frames the decision around skin condition, not age: "Retinoids can help acne, clogged pores, texture, and pigmentation, so for me it's less about the birthday and more about the skin's needs and appropriate use."

What age is safe to start?

There is no magic age. Dr. Jessica Weiser, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Weiser Skin MD, says retinol can benefit teens with acne and work as a "prejuvenation" product for people in their 20s and 30s — under professional guidance. She notes retinol should not be used for antiaging purposes until the 20s or even early 30s.

Kobets draws a line between cosmetic retinol and acne medication. "OTC adapalene 0.1% is labeled for acne at 12 and older; younger children need clinician guidance. That doesn't mean every 12-year-old needs it," she said.

Without a specific concern, Kobets recommends prioritizing cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. "Adults can consider retinol for texture, pigmentation, or fine lines; you haven't missed a deadline by not starting at 20," she said.

Does retinol prevent wrinkles?

Partially. "Retinol is very useful for a few purposes: collagen stimulation to prevent or soften fine lines and wrinkles and also for skin turnover and oil regulation," Weiser said. It cannot affect muscle movement, so it cannot fully prevent lines, wrinkles or aging, she clarified.

Kobets notes prescription tretinoin has stronger evidence than over-the-counter formulas, which vary in efficacy. For sun-related changes, "sunscreen, hats, and shade come first," she said. "We don't have evidence that children need retinol to prevent wrinkles."

What harm does overuse cause?

"Retinol can cause dryness, flaking, irritation, and skin redness; it can weaken the skin barrier," Weiser said. Barrier disruption and inflammation can leave dark marks. Overuse can also trigger irritant dermatitis: redness, peeling, burning and stinging from normally tolerated products.

"Appropriate use doesn't permanently thin skin, but pushing through irritation makes things worse. Burning, rawness, or an itchy rash shouldn't be dismissed as 'purging,'" Kobets said. Weiser added that retinol can worsen rosacea, eczema and redness, thins the epidermis, and should be stopped before waxing and some laser treatments. Results take months or even years.

How should beginners use it?

• Start with a pea-sized amount, twice a week, and titrate up as tolerated.
• Avoid eyelids, nose and mouth corners unless the product targets them.
• Use extra caution on the neck and chest, where fewer sebaceous glands mean easier irritation.
• Layer moisturizer before, after or both; keep exfoliating acids on separate nights.
• For sensitive skin, use the sandwich technique: moisturizer, retinol, moisturizer.

Can overuse damage be repaired?

Irritation usually improves shortly after stopping. Kobets advises pausing retinol, acids and scrubs, and switching to a gentle cleanser, a fragrance-free moisturizer with glycerin or ceramides, sunscreen, and a little petrolatum on dry areas. Restart slowly, possibly with a different product, once skin is comfortable. Swelling, blistering, crusting or persistent irritation warrants a dermatologist visit. Weiser adds that barrier repair or lipid-replenishing creams can help.

What are the alternatives?

"Healthy younger skin may only need cleansing, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide can help acne, and azelaic acid can address breakouts and pigmentation, but all can irritate," Kobets said. For adults who cannot tolerate retinol, she points to bakuchiol, a plant-derived active with some retinol-like effects — with a caveat: testing on pigmentation is limited, and broader analyses show no clear pigment-reducing benefit. "Plant-derived doesn't mean allergy- or irritation-free," she said.

The practical takeaway from both dermatologists: match the ingredient to a defined concern, start slow, and treat a compromised barrier before reaching for a stronger product.