Éminence Organic Skin Care has launched the Vitamin C+ Ultra Collection, a two-product line built on 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid — a stable, water- and oil-soluble form of vitamin C priced at $148 for the serum and $102 for the eye cream.

The brand positions the line around a single technical claim: this vitamin C derivative delivers brightening and firming benefits with less potential for irritation than traditional formulas.

Why does stability matter for vitamin C?

Brian Goodwin, international educator at Éminence Organic Skin Care, said the ingredient solves an old industry problem. "What excites me most about this type of vitamin C (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid) is that it finally addresses one of the biggest challenges the skin care industry has faced for years—stability," Goodwin said. "Traditional vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is highly effective, but it's notoriously difficult to keep stable and active once it's formulated."

Goodwin said the dual solubility "improves its ability to penetrate multiple layers of the skin," and that the form "can maintain its potency over time and deliver its full antioxidant benefits with less potential for irritation."

What changes for sensitive skin?

The pitch targets consumers who have abandoned vitamin C. According to Goodwin, many traditional vitamin C products rely on acidic forms that require a low pH to remain effective — a formulation strategy that can cause stinging, redness or irritation, particularly for people with sensitive or compromised skin barriers.

Instability compounds the problem. "As some forms of vitamin C degrade, their effectiveness can diminish, which sometimes prompts brands to formulate at higher concentrations in an effort to achieve results," Goodwin explained. "That can further increase the likelihood of irritation."

He added: "Many people with sensitive skin assume vitamin C isn't for them because they've had negative experiences with certain formulas in the past. The stabilized form of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid helps minimize the irritation concerns commonly associated with less stable forms, while antioxidant-rich cloudberry and other soothing botanicals help support the skin."

What's in the two products?

• Vitamin C+ Serum ($148): pairs the stabilized vitamin C with glutathione, mulberry and antioxidant-rich cloudberry. Éminence says it defends against environmental stressors that lead to visible loss of firmness and elasticity, delivers instant luminosity and, over time, softens the look of dark spots and fine lines.
• Vitamin C+ Eye Cream ($102): combines the same vitamin C with yerba mate and cloudberry to target dark circles, wrinkles and sagging. It comes with a cooling metal applicator that helps depuff and soothe on contact.

Goodwin said he has used both products on many clients, "including those who previously experienced sensitivities with other vitamin C products. The feedback has been overwhelmingly positive." The brand also reports early praise from professional makeup artists, who say the eye cream "layers beautifully under makeup."

How should the collection be used?

Goodwin recommends applying both products in the morning. "After cleansing, apply the Vitamin C+ Serum to help defend the skin against environmental stressors while supporting a brighter, more radiant-looking complexion throughout the day. Follow with your moisturizer and always finish with SPF during the daytime," he said.

His advice on results: stay consistent. "Vitamin C can deliver immediate radiance, but regular use supports longer-term improvements in the appearance of firmness, dark spots and fine lines," Goodwin said.

For Éminence, the launch tests whether a stable vitamin C derivative can convert the sensitive-skin consumers that traditional L-ascorbic acid formulas have long alienated.