PDRN Searches Jump 322% as Skincare Brands Bet on Novel Actives
PDRN leads Spate's ingredient trends with 322% growth. The Ordinary, Parëva, Dr. Dennis Gross and SkinCeuticals respond with new PDRN, collagen and longevity-focused launches.
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The takeaway
- PDRN searches grew 322.3% YoY to 1.4 million, topping Spate's April ingredient trends report with the NYSCC.
- The Ordinary launched Lacto-PDRN 4% + B9 Eye Cream, produced via Lactobacillus rhamnosus fermentation.
- SkinCeuticals reformulated C E Ferulic after its patent expired in 2025, adding 0.3% carnosine and 1% endophytol.
PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) searches grew 322.3% year over year to 1.4 million, topping Spate's latest ingredients trends report released in April with the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists. The biological compound, extracted from salmon or trout DNA, is popular in K-beauty and touted for tissue repair, collagen production and inflammation reduction via cellular adenosine receptor activation.
This past summer, The Ordinary entered the space with Lacto-PDRN 4% + B9 Eye Cream. Lacto-PDRN is produced via fermentation utilizing Lactobacillus rhamnosus. The formula supports the skin's natural renewal processes while improving the appearance of firmness, elasticity and wrinkles around the eye area, according to the brand. Vitamin B9 (folic acid) supports hydration, and a polysaccharide-based film-forming technology creates a lightweight, flexible network on the skin for an instant firming effect.
"Whether you're in your 20s looking to support healthy-looking skin, or in your 30s, 40s and beyond looking to address visible concerns like fine lines, crow's feet, loss of firmness or dullness, the formula is designed to target key signs of aging around the eye, as well as provide immediate visible benefits and improvements over time," said Silvia Stanica, senior manager, science communications, The Ordinary.
Stanica noted that under-eye aging comes from a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors rather than one lifestyle factor. "The skin around the eyes is naturally thinner and contains fewer oil glands than the rest of the face, making it more susceptible to visible changes over time," she added.
Collagen Comes Calling
Collagen also ranked among Spate's top ingredients, with 1.6 million searches, up 16.6% year over year. Parëva Beauty's new GFP12 Collagen Eye Serum targets the "cascade" of collagen loss driven by weakening barrier function and declining fat support beneath the skin.
"Ninety percent of our loyal customers asked us to create an eye product," said Smitha Rao, scientist and CEO of Parëva Beauty. "So, we developed a formula that goes beyond temporary blurring to address two key drivers of eye aging: collagen breakdown and age-related fat and lipid loss."
The serum delivers 12 bioactives plus Molecur 3, a patent-pending proprietary longevity technology that harnesses plant stem cells from Switzerland, influencing exosomes and NAD+ and mitigating UV-induced damage. Independent third-party clinical testing supervised by a board-certified dermatologist supports its performance, Rao said. The formula also contains six peptides and collagen fragments, a growth factor delivery system, ceramides, multi-weight hyaluronic acids and botanicals.
Dr. Dennis Gross spent five years of R&D on the DRx BioRejuvenation Serum, the first topical treatment in the brand's DRx franchise. It delivers collagen amino acids in the exact ratios naturally found in skin, alongside glutathione, niacinamide and adenosine (GNA) to support the skin's natural energy cycle. The serum targets sagging areas including the jawline, neck, nasolabial folds and jowls.
"We know that applying collagen directly doesn't work because the molecule is too large to penetrate the skin. Taking collagen orally is different, but it also gets broken down during digestion. I wanted to approach the problem differently by delivering the amino acids that make up collagen in the precise ratios naturally found in the skin," Dr. Dennis Gross told Happi.
In a 12-week consumer perception study, 90% of participants said their skin feels firmer, tighter and revitalized, and 96% said their skin looks rejuvenated, according to the brand.
New Serums and Essences
Dr. Muneeb Shah's Remedy line expanded with Multi-Depth Moisture Advanced Hydrating Serum, which pairs hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid, glycerin and saccharide isomerate with barrier supporters including centella asiatica, ectoin, beta-glucan and lactobacillus ferment.
Estée Lauder added Advanced Night Repair Recovery Treatment Essence to its flagship franchise. Using bio-exosome technology, the essence boosts skin resilience by 19% in one use, according to the brand, and amplifies the benefits of Advanced Night Repair Serum when layered.
SkinCeuticals reformulated C E Ferulic after the original patent expired in 2025. The update retains 15% pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), 1% vitamin E and 0.5% ferulic acid, and adds 0.3% carnosine and 1% endophytol, a biotech-derived dandelion root extract that shields against pollution-induced oxidative stress and inflammaging.
"For more than 20 years, C E Ferulic has set the gold standard in topical antioxidant protection," Stephen Lynch, head of skincare scientific valorization for research and innovation North America at L'Oréal, told Happi. "We believe the future of skincare is about helping skin remain healthier and more resilient over time—not simply correcting existing signs of aging."
Recovery and Relief
Gundry MD released Polyphenol Dark Spot Diminisher, a serum built on polyphenol-rich botanical extracts and brightening compounds. Relab introduced its Rescue + Restore System for the roughly 125 million people worldwide affected by psoriasis, using effector proteins as a new class of skincare actives. Its patent-pending filtrate features YopM, a bacterial protein that helps modulate cellular signals associated with a psoriasis flare.
"Our technology is designed to help manage symptoms and support more clear, comfortable, healthier-looking skin," said Eric Cowles, CEO of Relab. In an in-home consumer study, 100% of participants reported improved overall skin appearance and 91% reported less itchiness and scaliness.
Supply Side and Hypochlorous Acid
Coast Southwest added Bellativa SynPEP Oil, an oil-soluble peptide in an epigenetic botanical vehicle using biomolecules from the Spanish olive tree. Ashland launched Stabileze S, a starch-based rheology modifier in a non-microplastic chemistry, plus vital et sp, a water-soluble vitamin E derivative with 360° soothing benefits.
Hypochlorous acid continues its retail push. Indie brand QIQ uses patent-pending HypoBiome Technology with two-plus-year stability. In August, Skinfix entered Ulta with its Relief+ Hypochlorous Daily Mist, formulated with 0.02% hypochlorous acid. Magic Molecule expanded its Daily Skin Spray into Walmart nationwide.
"Innovation only matters if people can access it," said Justin Kerzner, co-founder and CEO of Magic Science Corporation. "Walmart has long been the destination where millions of families turn to trusted products at an exceptional value, making this a meaningful milestone not only for Magic Molecule, but also for the growing hypochlorous acid category."
With PDRN, NAD (up 2.2K% year over year) and volufiline (up 1.2K%) all surging in Spate's data, suppliers and brands alike are building pipelines around longevity science rather than correction alone.
Source: Happi; Source: nyscc.org
Grace Kim
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Correspondent covering media and advertising at Eurasian Beauty Journal.
