Gray Hair Goes Mainstream for Winter — Seven Ways to Keep It Healthy

Silver is the defining hair color of the season, but cold weather makes gray hair rough, brittle and prone to breakage. Emma Thompson, Olivia Colman and Sarah Jessica Parker have each debuted gray transformations in recent weeks. Runways at Lanvin, Akrin and Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood spotlighted gray hair at Paris Fashion Week.

The science behind the damage is straightforward. "Cold weather dries out gray hair, making it feel rough, brittle, and more prone to breakage and frizz," said John Clark, senior colorist at Nicola Clarke salon. "This is because the cold, low-humidity air pulls moisture from the hair, while indoor heating further dries it out."

Gray hair is structurally different from pigmented hair. It results from a loss of melanin in the strands. "Gray or white hair often has fewer natural lipids and a rougher cuticle, which means it can feel drier and coarser. It also reflects light differently, so it can look dull or wiry," said Dr. Aamna Adel, founder of Rhute Haircare. She adds that dropping temperatures can change both hair texture and the scalp, with flakiness and irritation as common consequences.

What does this change for a winter hair routine?

Seven adjustments, according to the experts:

• Focus on scalp care. A healthy scalp ensures gray strands are stronger and denser, according to hairstylist Joseph Yildiz, founder of Jo Nova. Dr. Adel recommends ceramides, fatty acids, shea butter and panthenol to rebuild the lipid barrier; niacinamide for scalp health; antioxidants — vitamin E, stem cell extracts, green tea extract — against oxidative stress, which accelerates graying and dryness; and amino acids and peptides to strengthen the hair shaft.
• Rethink washing. Avoid harsh sulfates, which strip coarse gray hair. Choose hydrating shampoos or cleansing conditioners, plus a leave-in conditioner on damp hair. Use a silver shampoo and conditioner once a week: "It dulls any yellow or brassy tones and helps reflect the light, making hair look shiny and glossy," Clark said.
• Clarify regularly. Every two weeks, use a clarifying formula if you use many styling products. "It will lightly cleanse any product buildup or mineral deposits in the hair. Sometimes white hair can appear yellow, and this solves that," said Jo Cockle at John Frieda Salon. Follow with a bond-building, moisturizing mask.
• Air-dry carefully. Never step into the cold right after air-drying. "The water in your hair can expand in freezing temperatures, which can lift the hair's cuticle and lead to split ends," said hairstylist Hollie Rose Clarke, a Living Proof ambassador. She recommends Living Proof Air-Dry Styler, which contains hemisqualane for lightweight moisture, or Moroccanoil Treatment, rich in omega-6. At night, Dr. Adel suggests a silk or satin-lined scarf or bonnet to prevent friction and static.
• Use a rich conditioner. Clark recommends keratin-based formulas to restore strength. Clarke name-checks amino acids to increase hydrophobicity (the hair's ability to lock in moisture) and hemisqualane to seal cuticles for a silkier look.
• Never skip heat protection. Overstyling with hot tools leaves gray hair "broken, dry, and even discolored," Clark said. Use a heat protector with hydrating, frizz-managing qualities even for a quick blow-dry.
• Consider a pollution shield. "Gray hair is more porous, meaning there is less natural protection from environmental factors (such as urban pollution) than with pigmented hair. This can be what causes a lack of shine or discoloration," Clarke explained. Modern shield formulas combine hydration with protection against heat tools and environmental damage.

The finishing touch

A small amount of hair oil adds instant shine, but a glossing treatment delivers longer-lasting luster. At-home glosses are applied pre-conditioner or in place of it, left for a few minutes, then washed out. A semipermanent conditioning tint such as Shrine Drop It revives gray color between salon visits.

With silver strands anchored on red carpets and Paris runways, expect product formulations built around lipids, bond-builders and anti-pollution shields to define the gray-hair category this winter.