Typology Lands in Italy, Betting on Minimalist Skin Care

Typology, the French direct-to-consumer skin care brand founded in early 2019 by Ning Li, officially launched in Italy on Wednesday. Li sat down with WWD in Milan to explain why the B-Corp company waited years to enter one of Europe's largest beauty markets.

"We try not to do too many things at the same time, so we handpicked markets, and all for different reasons," Li said. "The reason Italy came a little bit later than the others is the maturity of e-commerce. Even in 2019, when we launched in France, the market was quite new for shopping online. But now everyone shops online, so I think it's good timing."

The second driver was organic demand. "We've seen that the Italian market and brand awareness were particularly strong without us doing anything…even if we have never done any activity here," Li said.

Why fewer ingredients?

Typology keeps formulations under 20 ingredients, versus the average 30 to 40 promoted by competitors. The brand is known for minimalist formulas targeting precise concerns, from hydration and signs of aging to hypersensitivity and scalp imbalances. Active ingredients are stated clearly on packaging made of recyclable and recycled mono-materials (packaging composed of a single material, easing recycling).

"The approach is really about coming back to the essential: less ingredients also means less ingredients that are problematic for your skin," Li said. He argued this resonates in a saturated market, with TikTok making choice "even more overwhelming."

The assortment exceeds 100 references. Bestsellers include the 9-Ingredient Face Moisturizer D41 and the Tinted Serum T10, a hybrid of vitamin C and aloe vera that melds color and skin care in a light, silicon-free texture. Prices run from 15 euros to 40 euros.

What does this change for the rollout?

After becoming a leading skin care brand in France during COVID-19, Typology expanded to Belgium, the U.K., Germany, the U.S. and Japan. Li has identified the Netherlands and Eastern Europe as next targets, aided by proximity to the central logistics platform in France. The U.S. demanded more: a subsidiary, a warehouse in Pennsylvania and a local team.

"Europe has still an advantage for us," he said.

Customer preferences differ sharply across markets. "In the U.S., for example, they are a lot more driven by the immediate effects of skin care. They want something to work fast," Li said, noting the tinted serum's U.S. popularity. "In Europe, the skin care component remains much more important. I think it's a culture of skin care and there's maybe some more tolerance for patience and taking some time to get the result right."

Japan responds to credentials. "What really makes the Japanese consumers curious about Typology is that it's one of the leading brands in France," he said.

Retail, hotels and a founder's long game

Distribution still relies largely online, a choice Li ties to his previous ventures MyFab and made.com. "I just chose the one channel that I was comfortable with," he said. Physical presence stays targeted: an in-real-life corner opened in Paris' Printemps Haussmann two years ago, and last year Typology signed a deal placing amenities in more than 30 MGallery Collection hotels, part of Accor Group. The goal is brand connection, not sales, he said.

Typology raised a $10 million seed round in 2019 from Xavier Niel, Alven and Firstminute Capital. Li remains majority owner. The company employs 60 people in Paris, with an in-house R&D laboratory in the 11th arrondissement and partner laboratories in Normandy, Provence and Picardy.

"This is my third company and my desire for Typology is really to build something that can stand the test of time," Li said. "We never discounted any product, for example… the power of the brand is often in conflict with the short-term revenue." He quipped that "in my two other businesses I've been very impatient." MyFab was sold to Kering; made.com was an online furniture retailer in London.

Li entered beauty as an outsider, pivoting from design after his daughter's birth prompted a pharmacy shopping trip. "I was overwhelmed by the amount of choices," he said.

At the end of last year, he quietly launched a second beauty venture, the fragrance brand Sujet, under Good Brands, the company he set up in 2018 to build a portfolio of responsible labels. "It makes sense to have a portfolio of brands that can help the business overcome some of the hard times," Li said, adding that internal mobility between brands aids talent retention.