Espresso Brown Hair: Why Colorists Say Warmth Is Back for Brunettes

Brunettes are finally bringing warmth back, and espresso brown — a deep, dimensional brunette with a golden reflect — is leading the shift. "We're finally embracing warmth again and realizing just how flattering it can be," says Nataly Maldonado, colorist and owner of Velvet Palm Studio in Lake Worth Beach, Florida. "For so long, the goal was to eliminate every bit of warmth from hair, but warmth is what gives brown hair its richness, movement, and that beautiful, reflective touch."

What makes espresso brown different?

Maldonado describes the shade as "a deep, dimensional brunette with a golden reflect." Because the color is so dark, the golden aspect works as an undertone rather than an obvious cast. It creates contrast without washing out the complexion, she says.

"It's the type of shade that has people questioning how you were born with such an impossibly beautiful shade of brunette," Maldonado says. "You weren't—but it looks like you were."

Quia Querisma, a colorist in Dallas, calls espresso brown "a very rich and velvety brown with a slightly golden reflection in sunlight." The shade works across a wide range of complexions, she says, though an experienced colorist should determine whether a warmer or cooler version suits a client's skin tone.

Temur Hamilton, a colorist and owner of Temur in New York City, points to the dimension created by "blending slightly lighter and darker shades." For natural brunettes, he says, that makes it an easy way to change a look without a dramatic transformation. "It looks natural, but elevated," he says.

How do you get espresso brown hair?

The process depends almost entirely on the starting point. Natural brunettes have the easiest path. Maldonado says hair around a level 5 to 6 may need nothing more than a deep brown gloss with golden undertones to add shine and vibrancy. Hamilton says darker brunettes can often transition with the subtlest highlights or lowlights.

"Brunettes with virgin hair may have the luxury of a single-process step," Querisma says, meaning it can be as simple as applying the right shade. Naturally near-black hair, she says, may first need gentle lightening with a clear, permanent dye combined with a level 20 developer before the final espresso tone is deposited.

Dyed-black hair is a different situation. Hamilton says the black dye typically must be lifted first. "Then I would apply demipermanent or permanent gloss in the espresso brown shade," he says. "Depending on the result, I may add in subtle highlights for more dimension."

Blonde and gray hair require the most work. Maldonado explains blonde hair needs to be "prefilled with gold and/or copper pigments" — rebuilding the richness removed during blonding — the opposite of the approach for near-black hair. Without that step, she says, espresso brown can look "dull, hollow, or muddy." Prefilling also improves longevity because previously lightened hair is more porous and loses pigment faster. Querisma calls this corrective process a "tint back": "Tones of gold, copper, and red must be formulated and applied to the hair before applying the final brown," she says. Hamilton follows a similar two-step method, building a warm base first, then finishing with a glaze or gloss.

How much upkeep does espresso brown need?

For natural brunettes, maintenance is minimal. Maldonado recommends a gloss or color refresh roughly every six to eight weeks, depending on starting color, porosity and pigment retention. Querisma says some brunettes can go up to 12 weeks between refreshes.

Former blondes and grays should expect more frequent salon visits. "Even with great care, lighter roots will start to appear in about six weeks, so clients will need to schedule regular salon visits if they want to maintain the shade," Hamilton says.

At home, color-safe shampoo and conditioner — such as the Nexxus Color Assure Vibrancy Shampoo and Conditioner — help preserve richness, and washing less frequently reduces pigment loss. Hamilton recommends bond-repair products like the Ouai Bond Repair Balm, an Allure Best of Beauty Award winner, particularly for previously lightened hair. Maldonado advises lowering the temperature on hot tools and in the shower, and suggests the IGK Color Depositing Gloss Mask in Brown Bella between appointments — with a stylist's sign-off first, especially on highlighted or lightened hair.

For clients weighing the switch, the colorists' advice converges on one point: the shade is achievable for nearly every starting color, but only proper prefilling and toning will keep it looking expensive rather than flat.