By Olivia Hart

A $410 bottle of Parfums de Marly Safanad leads this fall's fragrance shopping list, and that price says plenty about where perfume is heading in 2026. Gourmand is still the story, but the sugar is gone.

Carina Chaz, founder and CEO of Los Angeles-based perfume brand DedCool, calls the shift directly. "I think gourmand is going to continue to be huge for fall, but we're seeing it evolve beyond super sweet scents," she said. The category now favors comfort over candy.

Chaz sees the change in the note palette itself. "There's more warmth and coziness coming through with woods, cream, and even boozy notes. People still want that comforting, almost edible quality, but in a way that feels a little more sophisticated and wearable," she said.

What does elevated gourmand mean this season?

Think espresso, bourbon and biscotti rather than cupcake frosting. Chaz points to Mocha Magic Eau de Parfum, $90, as the trend's textbook case. "It opens with freshly ground espresso, mocha and cream, with biscotti and bourbon adding sweetness. It's gourmand and comforting without feeling overly sugary, and it has that cozy familiarity you want as the weather starts to change," she said.

Elorea's Closer Eau de Parfum, $170, works the same angle with milky tea notes. The softness is deliberate. These scents aim for cashmere, not confectionery.

Which fragrances sit closest to the skin?

'90s minimalism has reached the fragrance counter. The reference point is Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy's effortless signature scent, and shoppers now want perfumes that layer quietly instead of announcing themselves. Diptyque's Fleur de Peau Eau de Toilette, $195, anchors the trend, ranging from crisp skin scents to bolder musks depending on the wearer's nerve.

Chaz names DedCool's own Xtra Milk as her starting point for the category. "It's the perfect base and layering tool because it works with whatever else you're wearing, whether that's a traditional fragrance, laundry detergent, body care, or hair perfume," she said.

Why toasted and nutty notes sell in cooler weather?

Marshmallow, vanilla, caramel, coconut and nutty accords take on a warm, subtly smoky quality as temperatures drop. Burberry Goddess Amber Vanilla Eau de Parfum, $192, sits squarely in the toasted-vanilla camp. The appeal is simple physics of mood: burnt sugar reads as fireplace, not dessert.

Is chocolate still a fall note?

Yes, and it splits into two personalities. Maison Mahata's Brownie Pop Extrait de Parfum, $215, goes full pastry, evoking freshly baked brownies and caramelized popcorn. Tom Ford's Tobacco Chocolat takes the opposite route, pairing dark chocolate with warm, woody and spicy accords for a less-sweet interpretation. One is dessert. The other is a dinner party.

Orange blossom also survives the season change. Chloé's Le Nectar Parfum Intense grounds the note with balmy tonka and woods, while Safanad layers it with vanilla and sandalwood for a creamy drydown.

What is falling out of favor?

Not much, according to Chaz. Fragrance now behaves like fashion, with layering and experimentation replacing hard rules about what is "in" or "out." Combining two fragrances, or adding a scented body wash or laundry detergent, counts as normal practice.

"If anything, I think we may be seeing a little less of that really dominant amber profile and more interest in scents that feel personal and unexpected," Chaz said. Her second recommendation, DedCool's Taunt, balances fresh bergamot with vanilla and amber, warm enough for fall but light enough for daily wear.

The verdict for the season: vanilla stays, amber yields ground, and the sweetness dial turns down. Chaz's read on consumer appetite suggests the sophisticated gourmand is not a phase but the direction of travel.